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The Good Food Revolution: Growing Healthy Food, People, and Communities, by Will Allen
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A pioneering urban farmer and MacArthur “Genius Award” winner points the way to building a new food system that can feed—and heal—broken communities.
The son of a sharecropper, Will Allen had no intention of ever becoming a farmer himself. But after years in professional basketball and as an executive for Kentucky Fried Chicken and Procter & Gamble, Allen cashed in his retirement fund for a two-acre plot a half mile away from Milwaukee’s largest public housing project. The area was a food desert with only convenience stores and fast-food restaurants to serve the needs of local residents.
In the face of financial challenges and daunting odds, Allen built the country’s preeminent urban farm—a food and educational center that now produces enough vegetables and fish year-round to feed thousands of people. Employing young people from the neighboring housing project and community, Growing Power has sought to prove that local food systems can help troubled youths, dismantle racism, create jobs, bring urban and rural communities closer together, and improve public health. Today, Allen’s organization helps develop community food systems across the country.
An eco-classic in the making, The Good Food Revolution is the story of Will’s personal journey, the lives he has touched, and a grassroots movement that is changing the way our nation eats.
- Sales Rank: #527137 in Books
- Brand: US Penguin Group
- Published on: 2012-05-10
- Released on: 2012-05-10
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: .97" h x 5.79" w x 8.47" l, .87 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 272 pages
Review
"What Allen does with a small plot of land and a lot of determination is nothing short of inspiring... A moving story of one man's success in producing healthy food for those who need it most." --Kirkus Reviews
"Allen gives readers the personal, moving account of a man whose family became part of the last century's great migration of African Americans out of the South. Of a man who traded a successful life in the corporate world for the economic uncertainties of a small farmer...�The Good Food Revolution is inspiring." --�Los Angeles Times
- 2013 NAACP Image Awards nominee for autobiography/biography
- Goodreads Choice finalist for best food book of the year
- Adopted as a common-reading book for students at the University of Florida, George Washington University, Hofstra University, Davenport University, University of Wisconsin-Stout, South Dakota State University and Albion College
“From the plots of his Milwaukee urban farm to low-income communities across America, Will Allen has shown us a new type of heroism.� Through The Good Food Revolution, Allen recounts his effort to reclaim his family’s heritage and, in doing so, confront lingering disparities in racial and economic justice.� As the champion of a new and promising movement, Allen is skillfully leading Americans to face one of our� greatest domestic issues – our health.” – �Former President Bill Clinton
“Will Allen’s remarkable story, told with eloquence and compassion, conveys the universal value of social justice and real food.” – Alice Waters
“Far more than a book about food, The Good Food Revolution captivates your heart and mind with the sheer passion of compelling and righteous innovation. Wow!” –� Joel Salatin, Polyface Farm
“Will Allen is a hero and an inspiration to urban farmers everywhere.� Now, with The Good Food Revolution, we learn� how Allen rediscovered the power of agriculture, and in doing so transformed a city, its community, and eventually the world – with the help of millions of red wiggler worms.� Told with grace and utter honesty, I found myself cheering for Allen and his organization, Growing Power.” – Novella Carpenter, author of�Farm City and The Essential Urban Farmer
About the Author
After retiring from professional basketball and executive positions at Kentucky Fried Chicken and Procter & Gamble, Will�Allen became the CEO of Growing Power. He lives in Milwaukee.�Charles Wilson is a journalist and the coauthor with Eric Schlosser of the #1 New York Times bestselling children's book Chew on This: Everything You Don't Want to�Know About Fast Food.
Excerpt. � Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
ESCAPE
Willie Mae Kenner
She held a one-way ticket.
In December of 1934, my mother, Willie Mae Kenner, stood in the waiting room for colored people at the train station in Batesburg, South Carolina. She was twenty-five years old. Her two young boys, my older brothers, were at her side. She was heading to Union Station in Washington, D.C. She was trying to escape our family’s long history in agriculture.
I imagine her on this day. Willie Mae was known to be beautiful and headstrong. Many local men had called her “fine”—she had strong legs, smooth skin, a round and lovely face, and thoughtful eyes. She also had dreams that were too big for her circumstances. She and her husband, and seven of her nine siblings, were sharecroppers: tenant farmers who gave up half of the crop they planted and harvested each season in exchange for the right to pick it. It was the only life that she had known.
My mother held different hopes in her heart, both for herself and her children. She had fought to obtain a teaching degree from Schofield Normal and Industrial School, a two-year college initially set up after the Civil War by Quakers, to educate free slaves. She wanted to be a teacher. Her family noticed that when she was required to pick cotton or asparagus, she did the work without complaint. Yet she wore a long, flowing dress on top of her work shirt and pants while in the fields. It was as if she wanted to find a way to give grace and dignity to work that often provided neither.
From the train station in Batesburg, Willie Mae was trying to escape asparagus and cotton. At the time, the South was still in the thrall of “Jim Crow”: the rigid set of laws set up after the Civil War to separate whites and blacks in almost every part of public life. The 1896 Supreme Court decision in Plessy v. Ferguson—allowing “separate but equal” facilities for black people—meant that my mother could not share the same train car with white passengers. She and her children could not even wait in the same area for the train to come. Her train car sat directly behind the coal car, where men shoveled the rocks into the roaring engine. The smoke of the engine blew through the car’s windows and seeped into her clothes. She and her two boys would need to use a bathroom marked not “Men” or “Women” but “C,” for “Colored.”
Her journey was to take her to the nation’s capital, where Willie Mae planned to reunite with her husband, James Kenner. His friends called him “Major,” for reasons I never understood. He had left South Carolina after falling into debt. During the Great Depression, the price for cotton had dropped to only 5 cents a pound— down from 35 cents only a decade earlier. Major had found himself owing more to his landowner at the end of the planting season than when he began it. Sharecropping had begun to feel like slavery under another name.
“There’s no money here,” he told my mother shortly before leaving.
Major found a small place to live in Ken Gar, an all-black neighborhood on the edge of Kensington, Maryland, ten miles from the White House. He sent word to my mother to come. Major was now building houses instead of planting crops. Willie Mae had never seen the place she was going to call home.
My mother left the South before I was born. I know from relatives that she decided against boarding her departing train at the nearest station, in Ridge Spring, likely out of concern that local people would talk about her. When I was growing up, she rarely spoke of her Southern past, as if it were a secret that was best not talked about in polite company. She told my brothers and me that she liked the taste of every vegetable except asparagus—she simply had picked too much of it.
I have wondered what passed through her mind when the train pulled out of Batesburg. As the locomotive edged north out of South Carolina, she would have seen from the windows the life she had known. She would have seen the long-leaf pine trees, the sandy soil, and the fields that yielded cotton and parsnips and cabbage and watermelon. She would have seen other sharecroppers at work, their clothing heavy with sweat.
Willie Mae knew how to sustain her family in South Carolina. She had learned from her mother how to bed sweet potatoes and garden peas and cabbage and onions in the early spring. When the full heat of summer came, she had learned how to plant turnips and eggplants and cucumbers and hot peppers and okra and cantaloupes. She had learned how to take all the parts of a hog that the men slaughtered and turn it into souse (a pickled hog’s head cheese), scrapple (a hog meatloaf), liver pudding, or a dish called “chitlin’ strut”—fried pig intestines. She had learned in the late autumn how to can peaches and sauerkraut and pecans and yams for the cold season.
She was leaving for a city where it was uncertain if any of the skills she had—or any of the dreams she harbored—would matter.
Most helpful customer reviews
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful.
The Good Food Revolution has real "Growing Power"
By Lawgirlamy
The Good Food Revolution is the best book I've read in a long time. My interest in local and urban agriculture drew me to the book; the intimate stories of individuals and communities that frame that meta-narrative drew me into it. The book arrived on Wednesday. Despite an excessively busy schedule, I had completed it by early Saturday morning, often forgoing much-needed sleep because I simply could not put it down.
The rich and engaging stories of individuals and their relationships to one another through family, community, and politics are told through the lenses of race, economics, and, of course, agriculture, all woven together by Will Allen in a style that is at once eloquent and folksy; comprehensive and intimate. Through engaging vignettes, Will Allen's The Good Food Revolution provides glimpses into the history of this nation, with particular emphasis on the different experiences of people of different races. The story is deeply personal, yet told in a way that we can all feel like we are a part of it and of the future envisioned by Will Allen.
Will Allen shares stories of past and present racial inequality in a tone that is likely to draw people in, rather than make people feel either guilty or entitled. Unlike the judgmental and accusatory tone often found in such accounts, Mr. Allen's gentle and understanding tone allows him to capture the extreme difficulties faced by people of color without alienating others. By handling even the most shameful aspects of our nation's history with grace and tact, Mr. Allen was able to draw me into the stories without feeling like a would-be savior or presumed culprit for our divided history. Rather, I felt like an invited guest to our shared future.
Mr. Allen tells the story of environmental damage wrought by modern agricultural practices in much the same tone, with understanding towards those who are practicing out of ignorance - even admitting some of his own less-than-best practices over the years. This approach is far more likely to result in converts to his way of thinking than the acerbic, arrogant, and accusatory tone that often seem to underlie discussions of both agriculture and race these days.
Mr. Allen, who describes himself as a muscular 6'7", seems to have an awareness of the effectiveness of this approach:
I also recognized there was a power in bing both huge and polite; I invoked fear in people and allayed it at the same time. (p. 69).
By approaching the topic in this way, my eyes were opened to things I wasn't fully aware of before and I was very receptive to hearing it from him. For example, I'm a big proponent of the local food movement and of organic and sustainable agricultural practices. I believe that much of our public policy favors BigAg at the expense of the little guy. Mr. Allen showed me that many of those "little guys" are black farmers:
"For black farmers in the twentieth century who outlasted the upheaval of the Great Migration [northward], there were more subtle forces that drove them off their land. In 1982, the bipartisan U.S. Commission on Civil Rights issued a report called 'The Decline of Black Farming in America' that attempted to understand why black farmers were leaving the profession at a rate of two and a half times greater than that of whites. The committee found that one important reason was that black farmers were small farmers. . . . Almost all of the technological innovations that the United States government had subsidized over the previous decades, the authors acknowledged, were geared toward increasing the productivity of large farms -- and not to making small farms sustainable."
There's a lot packed into that quote, including public policy (subsidies), the dangers of over-efficiency in farming, and the racial disparities in loss of farming opportunities. Most importantly, it speaks to our united interest in supporting small, local farmers. Through this and similar sentiments scattered throughout the book, I discovered an unanticipated affinity with people of color, coming to the recognition that they feel even more acutely than others the effects of policies and procedures that are not helpful or sustainable for any of us. It educated me about the challenges facing urban farmers without shaming me for my prior ignorance.
This is also reflected in Mr. Allen's description of his intentional method of helping young people want to eat real food - not through lecturing them, but by allowing them to be part of the experience. In describing the findings of a study about young people and nutritional habits, Mr. Allen relates:
"The researchers found no significant difference a year later in the vegetable and fruit consumption of children without nutrition education and those who received nutrition classes. The students who received hands-on training in a garden, however, increased their fruit and vegetable intake by more than two servings a day. My own experience tells me that if we can expose young people more often to fresh, delicious food - and create positive emotions around those experiences - that we increase the chances that they will adopt more fresh food into their diet as they begin to make independent food choices later in life." (p. 161)
The Good Food Revolution frequently uses gardening and agriculture as a metaphor for life:
"My father taught me that the fate of a seed can be predicted by the health of the soil where it takes root. This is true of summer crops. It can be true, in another sense, of people. We all need a healthy environment and a community that lets us fulfill our potential." (p.63)
He later described vermiposting in similar terms:
"The worms also made me reflect again on what it took to improve the lives of people. You couldn't place folks in the middle of a blighted neighborhood -- without a strong family unit and without easy access to healthy food -- and expect them to thrive. If you could create an environment in which people felt secure and healthy, though, you could provide the possibility of a better life."
A counter-balance to this is the story of Karen Parker, who overcame significant obstacles to thrive in the urban agriculture environment. He summed up her experience using another metaphor:
"Sometimes on the sidewalks of Milwaukee, there will be a flower or a tall week sticking defiantly out of the tiniest crack in the concrete. I realize that human lives can be like that. People find a way to persist even when they are provided the narrowest opportunity."
Wisdom about the value of patience and adversity, among other things, are also woven throughout the book. In a chapter introduction entitled "Grit," Will compares humans to worms, which need to have *just the right amount* of hard material in their diet in order to break down compost, "Human beings need the right amount of grit: not too much, but not too little, either." (p. 207)
In addition to the broader philosophical themes, the book offers plenty of sound, practical advice for the would-be gardener, non-profit organization, or even small business start-up. For the gardener, there is specific information about the ratio of elements needed for good compost, specific measurements of Growing Power's aquaponics equipment, and descriptions of tehniques for planting, cultivating, and even preparing produce.
For the non-profit or for-profit business, the book includes a very transparent look at the thought processes that underlie the successes - and failures - that brought both Will Allen and Growing Power to where they are today. The book describes various challenges faced by Mr. Allen and the organization, and describes the problem-solving techniques used to over come them. One example is the description of how he and a number of other farmers at a local farmers market decided to organize themselves into a co-op after facing the prospect of being shut down due to city budget constraints.
The practical advice and philosophical themes work together to inspire the reader to live a fulfilling life by harnessing her unique gifts, talents, experiences, and passions into something meaningful. Mr. Allen doesn't sugar-coat the value or necessity of hard work and perseverance - it is detailed on every page. But, he also highlights the rewards that can come from working hard at a meaningful endeavor.
The book covers a lot of ground and tells the story of many people, but it is not the least bit disjointed. In fact, I would say that the integrated way the book was put together with diverse people, circumstances, and events, is a reflection of the type of community envisioned within its pages.
Amy M. Salberg, A.K.A. The Real Food Lawyer
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Ohio State Freshmen Book 2015
By Marjean M. Hull
My grandson will be starting his freshmen year at The Ohio State University in a few weeks. This book is required reading for all new students at all of their campuses. In September Will Allen is scheduled to give a presentation on the main campus that will be broadcast to the satellite as well. My daughter and I decided that we read this book too and I'm glad we did. I'd recommend it to anyone who is interested in the health of our country both physically and mentally.
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful.
not indifferent
By warren laroche
I thought I was going to learn about new ways to eat. Ellie Wiesel says the opposite of love is indifference. Will Allen is anything but indifferent. I'm sometimes in tears reading about how hard he and his family works to have his millions of employees, his worms, convert food waste into affordable nutrition for "his people". We don't share the same skin tone but I think of him as a brother.
He is leading us to a society where the food is not provided by an industry that is more interested in shelf life than providing nutrition. He is leading us back to a time when we ate what we grew and saved some for when we couldn't. I hope more people read his book and begin to plan for the revolution which the FDA isn't being paid to lead.
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